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The mountains and forests of
Vancouver's North Shore are more than just decorative frosting for
(if we do say so ourselves) an attractive city. And no, you don't
have to be a teenage mountain biker to enjoy them. Hiking,
snowshoeing, nature walks, kayaking and river-dipping are all within
easy reach of downtown.
Following are some samples of Vancouver's almost-wild edges—three
accessible, affordable and downright delightful outdoor
experiences—to give you a taste of what's out there.
By Land
The
Capilano Suspension Bridge is one of the most popular tourist
attractions in Vancouver, and there is something to be said for
swaying over a 230-foot (7o-metre), vertigo-inducing chasm. But if
you prefer to avoid the madding crowds and the $27-per-person entry
fee, there are other options. Capilano River Regional Park is a
400-acre evergreen forest surrounding the Capilano River, which runs
out of a dam spillway at Capilano Lake. A network of trails runs
throughout the park, offering a much less populous landscape of
sword ferns, river pools and steep granite canyons—as well as the
occasional river kayaker shooting the Class III rapids. and coho salmon). You'll also find a good
trail map here: all trails are easy on the eyes and the legs, but
one of the best is the Capilano Pacific Trail that winds along the
west side of the river. Two other trails of note: the Second Canyon
Viewpoint Trail gives some dramatic upstream views, and the Giant
Fir Trail leads you to Grandpa Capilano, a 61-metre (2oo-foot)
old-growth Douglas fir that was putting down roots when Columbus was
still in diapers.
To access the hatchery entrance to the park, take the Lions Gate
Bridge to
Highway #1 and exit at Capilano Road/ Grouse Mountain. Head north on
Capilano Road and turn left on Capilano Park Road, just past
Edgemont Boulevard.
The parking lot is at the end of the road.
By Sea
Indian Arm is a miniature version of the B.C.-Alaska Inside Passage,
minus the nasty squalls and rip currents.w and scenic day paddle.
The put-in at Deep Cove is only 3o minutes away from downtown,
making an afternoon kayak a surreal experience when you've been
surrounded by office towers mere moments before.
 As traditional fishing and hunting grounds for several local First
Nations including the Squamish
and Tsleil-Waututh bands, the entire inlet north of the Twin Islands
has been preserved as a provincial park, and houses are few. When
motor-boat engines and passing sailboats are out of sight (the Royal
Vancouver Yacht Club maintains a rustic inn near the head of the
inlet), there's a palpable sense of being in another century.
If you go keep an eye out for eagles and deer, as well as harbour
seals, who tend to hang out on the rocks of the western shore near
Silver Falls. Spring brings millions of moon jellies (jellyfish) to
the Arm—making swimming a bit spooky—but they're basically harmless.
(Avoid the larger, reddish-orange Lion's Mane jellyfish that show up
later in the summer—they can pack a nasty sting.) Equally spooky are
two gothic power stations built by BC Hydro in the early 1900's.
Though they look defunct, one is still in operation—kicking out
about 18,000 kilowatts of power as well as occasional surges of
water from Buntzen Lake.
Picnic spots abound on the Arm's inlets and
along the shore, but save room for the amazing doughnuts at Honey
Doughnuts and Goodies in Deep Cove (4373 Gallant Ave., 604-929-4988)
when you get back. Boats, gear, lessons and tours are available at
Deep Cove Canoe and Kayak, 604-929-2268,
www.deepcovekayak.com
To get there, take Trans-Canada Highway #1 over the Second Narrows
Bridge toward North Vancouver.
Take the first exit to the right, 232 Dollarton Highway. Follow
Dollarton to its end right onto Deep Cove's main street, Gallant
Avenue.
By Snow
Snowshoeing at night is one of the great pleasures of Vancouver in
the winter. When it's raining and dreary in the city, it's usually
crisp and snowing above the 900-metre (half-mile) mark. Tromping
through fresh snow under a full moon—headlamp switched off, a
thermos of hot chocolate in your backpack is a wonderful combination
of rigorous exercise, alpine peace and indulgent escape.
 Cypress
Mountain offers snowshoe terrain in two flavours: in the designated
alpine resort, and out-of-bounds in the surrounding provincial park.wy meadows and forest trails for a
two-hour trip ending at Hollyburn Lodge, a charming and rustic
chalet serving food, drinks and occasionally live acoustic music.
Basic winter gear is required (hiking boots, warm socks, ski
jackets, hats, etc.), and for the $32 fee, snowshoes, poles and
headlamps are provided. For more information and advance booking,
check www.cypressmountain.com or call the resort at 604-926-5612
If you're there by day, you can head to a great beginner trail in
the provincial park, which starts at the very end of the
cross-country parking lot (you can't miss the trailhead once you hit
the end of the lot). The trails weave through the woods and, while
separate from the resort, are never too far from the groomed runs.
Fortunately, they're also not far from the fire pit—stocked with
roasting sticks and marshmallows for the kiddies—and other winter
comforts of Hollyburn Lodge. If you choose to rent your gear before
you hit the mountain, the best bets are Altus Mountain Gear
(604-876-5255) on West Broadway or Mountain Equipment Co-op
(604-872-7858), right across the street.
To get to Cypress from downtown, take the Lions Gate Bridge and
follow the signs to Highway 1, via Taylor Way. Head west on Highway
1 to Exit 8, Cypress Bowl Road, and follow it for 13 kilometres (8
miles) to the cross-country/snowshoe parking lot.
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